We slept in the cars last night, and then went to McDonald’s for breakfast and coffee. Rain was predicted by this little grandiose know-it –all who worked at McDonald’s, which intimidated me tremendously. It started to rain on the way to Pinkham Notch, which added to my anxiety. The tension was broken when Scooter saw a bull moose getting ready to cross the road on the way. He had just started to grow his new antlers, but he was still intimidating. We were in the car, but I wouldn’t want to hit the big bull.
We got to Pinkham Notch where most of the folks there were hiking up the trails to the Presidential Range with snow ski’s, strapped to their packs. I assumed they would hike up and ski for the day then hike back down or stay up high for the week.
After a short time, we decided to abort the hike due to the rain and headed back to New York. A half hour later, the rain quit and the sun came out. I was as down as I get because we quit. I was afraid of the mountain, but more afraid that if I quit now I would never get the courage to climb it again. I believe once you quit once it gets easier to find an excuse the next time. I pulled over to talk it over with Scooter and decided to return. We turned around to face my fear.
Scooter wasn’t pleased with my indecision, but went along as supportive as she could be. Once again, we left my car at Gorham on route 2 and took hers to Pinkham Notch. This time there was no turning back.
We hiked about a mile along the base of the mountain to Lost Pond before we started our assault on Wildcat in silence. The two miles up Wildcat’s peak E face took most of the day. It was a grueling hand over hand climb most of the time with zero let up to relax. Once we committed to ascend Wildcat there was no turning back, because I don’t think we had the skill to have descended the mountain.
I thought the mountain would go on forever, but eventually we reached the top of Wildcat’s peak D where a silent ski gondola stood waiting for next year’s snows. We took a short break to celebrate our accomplishment, but it was late afternoon and we only hiked 3 miles. Our planed destination was another 3 miles to Carter Notch where there was a Appalachian Mountain Club Hut where we could rent a bunk for $35 for the night.
We trudged on as fast as we could, but the day was ending fast and the distant thunder predicted a storm was coming soon. We were still over two miles from the hut when it was obvious we weren’t going to make it. We stopped and prayed for help and soon came upon a thick mossy place off trail, small, but big enough for our two little tents where we could spend the night.
We no more than got set up and in out tents when the rain started. The rain started softly at first, but soon got into a violent lightening storm with frightening lightning that rocked Wildcat Mountain. We were way up higher on the mountain than I ever wanted to camp in a small tent with aluminum poles, but we turned our fate over to our Creator and left the outcome up to Him.
I fell asleep during the worst part of the storm, which kind of pissed Scooter off, but when I awoke it was still thunder and lightning out.
Eventually the storm settled into a steady rain on the tents, which sang me back to sleep until just before daylight.
We ate breakfast, Scooter ate oatmeal, and I had of tuna and noodles, which we washed down with strong bad trail coffee. We had to pack up wet tents and gear, but we were thankful to be back on the trail. Alcoholics Anonymous has a slogan that goes, this too shall pass. We hoped the worst was over.
We hiked along Wildcat ridge over peak C and then A. The trail then dropped from peak A very steeply one mile into Carter Notch. We stopped for a break at Carter Lake, which is a small pristine lake in Carter Notch. We could see trout in the crystal, clear water of the wilderness lake. The sun was out in full force by then, but time and the fear of ice-cold water kept me from skinny-dipping. I would so much like to cast a dry fly on Carter Lake’s water some day in hopes of a trout lunch.
We then ascended just as steeply over a mile to the summit of Carter Dome at 4832 feet high. A magnificent view of the Presidential Mountain Range rewarded us for our effort. We tried to identify all the mountains. Washington was the easiest because it’s the largest and it’s the only one with smoke stacks on the top. We could also identify Monroe, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison, I think, but Mt Clay is in there somewhere, so I could be wrong. The view was worth the whole trip.
We encountered deep snow on the trail on the north side of Carters Dome. We could see snow on the Presidential Mountains and a thru-hiker warned us that there was snow on the trail on Carter, so it was no big surprise. We took it in stride and hiked on it for about half a mile, we still came across some patches, but it was no big deal. What was a big deal was the heavy snows of winter broke down trees all along the trail that blocked the trail. We had to continually climb over or go around these trail blockers, which slowed our progress and was also physically challenging with a heavy pack.
We took a late lunch break, but once again moved on to make it to our destination of Imp Campsite, where we wanted to stay. The campsite was 6 more miles away, so realistically I didn’t think we could make it. We prayed and believed God would provide a place to spend the night. Jesus once told his disciples to just go and not worry about where to stay. I wish I could not worry, but I did believe we would be okay. Scooter always says, God’s provision and she hasn’t been wrong yet.
We trudged on and I wasn’t sure how far we had to go late in the day. The first landmark I could identify was Zeta Pass, which was almost 4.5 miles from our campsite. I knew we wouldn’t make it that day, but we would go as far as we could.
Late in the day, when we approached Middle Carter Mountain the sky clouded up and we could see the storm coming over the distant Presidential Mountains. Black clouds covered Washington’s summit. We came upon a flat mossy place, but we elected to pass it by hoping the storm would pass by us. I had an eerie feeling I was pushing my luck as we hiked on.
The storm didn’t pass us by and when it hit there was no place to take shelter, so we put our ponchos on over our packs and trudged on. Scooter seemed unconcerned and said, “God will provide.”
It was getting late and we were soaking wet. We were somewhere between Middle Carter and North Carter Mountains and very high up when we came across a moss covered flat spot at the bottom of a sharp incline where we would be safe for the night.
We set up in wet tents, crawled into wet sleeping bags, and ate a cold supper of a bagel with peanut butter. Our synthetic sleeping bags warmed us up even though they were wet. We went to sleep with heavy rain and strong wind, but the thunder and lightning had passed.
We awoke to a calm clear morning where the day promised to be clear and sunny, which elevated our spirits. We however still crawled out of sopping wet sleeping bags and packed up wet heavy tents. We were on trail by 6:00 after bad trail coffee.
The sun rose and dried up all the rain by the time we passed the Imp Shelter/Campsite. Shortly after we passed Imp we decided to set up our tents and wet gear on a large granite rock to dry out. It was about 10:00, so we cooked lunch while we waited, which took less than an hour. We packed up dry light gear and were off. I was surprised at how much the break to get dried out improved our moods.
We trudged on making better time as the harsh terrain gave way to gentler slopes with a few steep ascents and descents thrown in to remind us that we were still in the White Mountain National Park.
I came down with an annoying blister that I had to treat, which slowed us down. We had one last mountain to climb named Mariah, like the wind. It was a long, but gentle climb to a spectacular view of what I believed were the White Mountains of New Hampshire on one side and the Maine landscape on the other side. We descended Mariah steeply then the landscape changed from fir trees to hardwoods and softer footfall.
We hustled down the trail along the Rattle River anticipating getting off the trail and a pizza that night, but it wasn’t to be. About seven o’clock I could not physically go on, so we stopped along the river and set up camp in a dry tent and sleeping bag. The river sang us to sleep before it even got dark. I thought once again of God’s provision.
We were up at the first light of dawn and on the trail with only crackers for breakfast. Ironically, the Rattle River Shelter was less than a half mile away from where we stopped. I told Scooter we had a much better place to stay anyway and she agreed. We quickly ascended the last two miles to our friendly car awaiting our return and it was off to McDonald’s for breakfast and good brewed coffee. Thus ended another adventure for us.
2014
New Hampshire hike
Day 1
We left our camp in New York first thing in the morning the day before. We got to the White Mountain National Park long enough before dark to scout out our plan for the first leg of our hike starting first thing in the morning the next day. We spent the night at Crawford Notch, left my car there, and took Scooters car to the hiker parking four miles below the Franconia Ridge in the Franconia Notch State Park.
We terminated our last hike in the Whites on the summit of Mount Lafayette two years before, which is where we
planned to resume. The trouble is we have a four-mile hike up a ridge called Agony Ridge to the summit of Lafayette. The
We packed up enough supplies from our hiker bin at the car for a three-day hike to our other car parked at Crawford Notch. We left with a little apprehension since we haven't been on a hike this strenuous for a few years. I believe the White Mountains are the most difficult section of the entire Appalachian Trail.
The trail we chose is called the Old Bridal Path, however having descending it previously two years ago , I find it
hard to believe a horse could have ever climbed or descended it over Agony Ridge. We set off at a rather brisk
Hand over hand.
Scooter had a hard time on the tough climbs due to being much smaller than I am, but I stayed patient and stopped often. Some of the climbs were almost vertical, I tried to take several pictures, but the pictures didn't show the depth or the steepness.
Scooter climbing
Often we would come to a cliff edge on the ridge and get an excellent view of our goal, which was the summit of Mount Lafayette.
Mount Lafayette
The map said it was 2.9-miles to Greenleaf Hut. We hiked and climbed over three hours before the mountain gave way
to some
Looking down at Greenleaf Hut & the valley below.
Once we were above treeline, we could no longer see the trail through the vegetation for obvious reasons (no vegetation), so cairns marked the trail. Cairns are a heap of rocks piled up by volunteers to mark the trail. We could see the trail clear to the summit. We also could see several hikers above us both ascending and descending.
Cairn
Granite boulders ranging in size from a
Note the scars on the mountain below are ski slopes.
The Summit of Lafayette
The clouds started to move in, but weren’t threatening yet. However, we moved out quickly down the Appalachian Trail towards the safety of below treeline before the pending storm hit.
Scooter on the Franconia Ridge.
We were safe below treeline long before the storm hit.
In the rain, but safely below treeline.
The day dragged out and we were losing energy fast. I could now see that I underestimated how quickly we could make it to the Guyot Shelter, which was our original goal for the day. We set a new destination for the Garfield Ridge Campsite, which was four miles from the summit of Lafayette. The time was about four o'clock and we still had about four hours of good daylight. We stopped alongside the trail, cooked some noodles, and ate a lot of chocolate for a good rest and renew our energy.
The rain stopped and we moved on at a slow pace after an hour. We met four girls thru-hiking together that were headed for the same campsite we were. They hiked much faster than we were capable of, so I worried if we would have a place to stay that night. I reassured Scooter that I'm sixty-three and so far, I have found a place to sleep every night. I secretly still worried, but as it turned out, I had nothing to worry about because at about seven-thirty, well before dark, we found the campsite and set up our tents side by side on a platform. We paid the Appalachian Mountain Club Sixteen dollars to stay there for the night.
We cooked again, thanked God for the privilege of the adventure, and turned in for the night thus ending day one.
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Day 2
We awoke to a dark, gray day. Scooter found a blister on her little toe that had already broken, so we padded it before we hiked. We made trail poor coffee, packed up all our belongings and hiked out before most of the other campers were even awake.
The first task was to hike steeply down off Mount Garfield, which aggravated Scooters blister right off the bat. The day was misty and damp, which afforded zero vistas from Garfield.
Scooter climbing steeply off Garfield.
The morning was uneventful, but it gave me a chance to connect with my Higher Power. Sometimes I just need some alone time away from the everyday hustle of the business at home. When I read about all the spiritual leaders of all time and religions one of the common threads was always that they went into the wilderness to be alone to meditate or listen to God as they understood Him. Even Christ did this often as did the others. I do it because they did it and I think it works, at least for me.
We slipped into silence as we trudged along. I don't think either one of us was going negative, but the cloud cover started to rise, so our moods soon improved and we started to chatter as if we were on our first date or something.
The clouds lifted changing the flavor of the hike.
We were hiking through the dense growth of the lower altitudes, but the trail seemed worn down to solid granite from years of hiker's boots. We ran into solid sheets of Granite going steeply up or down that hikers call, "Sierra Sidewalk."
Sierra Sidewalk
The hiking on Sierra Sidewalk is easy once you learn to depend on your shoes to hold onto the surface. That's the reason I recommend a good pair of hiking boots if someone plans to hike the Appalachian Trail anywhere in the fourteen states that it snakes through, but especially in the Whites.
Early in the afternoon, a thunderstorm blew in as we approached the summit of Mount Guyot, which is pronounces Guya with the t being silent. When we started to ascend, we met a southbound hiker, who told us it was "Terrible up there with the lightening!" I heard some thunder at times, but it seemed quite far away. I questioned him a little and thought he was only an awfulizer and he was awfulizing the situation for whatever his reasons. We went right over the summit as the storm subsided enough to give a feeling of security as we reached the top.
The top of Guyot that day
Scooters blisters started to escalate in the early afternoon, which slowed us down considerably. We trudged on in the on and off rain. Late in the day, it became obvious that we weren’t going to be able to reach our goal of Ethan Pond Campsite, which was still about 7 miles away, so I started to scout out a stealth campsite.
Stealth camping is what hikers call finding a place in the woods to set up a tent for the night. It took almost an hour to find a place suitable to set up both of our tents for the night. New Hampshire doesn't allow fires when stealth camping for a minim disturbance to the environment. This is called low impact camping.
Our stealth campsite.
The rain subsided until we set up camp. We each cooked our supper on our little pocket rocket stoves and ate before the rain started with a vengeance.
We took shelter in our little tents long before dark. We tried to hold a conversation through the tent walls, but the rain stifled that, so I went to sleep. I assume Scooter did the same, thus ending Day 2.
We had to